Do It Yourself Central Vacuum Systems - Central Vacuum Installation

When installing vacuum sockets in solid walls, especially single brick or block walls, installation is often made easier by discarding the box part of the fitting (far right), and installing just the elbow part of the fitting. Make sure that the hole in the fitting is covered before plastering the fitting & pipework into the wall, and leave a small cavity for the 12V terminals on the back of the socket. At second fix, secure the vacuum socket directly to the wall using rawlplugs.

Socket inserted into 90 degree elbow fitting without the box

	Central Vacuum Installation

			The lugs on the side of the box are useful for an initial fix of the box in a stud wall, but the box should be secured with a couple of screws through the side of the box. The lugs can be broken off for fixing in solid walls and the box fixed to the wall with a screw(s) through the back or side of the box or with a fixative such as Gripfill.

The Pipework

This is 50mm (outside) diameter and is normally supplied with the vacuum unit. Please note that the PVC pipe usually sold as 50mm (2”) pipe by plumbers / builders merchants and DIY stores is not 50mm, but 55mm. (It has a 2” internal diameter). Some builders merchants & DIY stores do sell 50mm (O.D.) pipe as rainwater pipe to be used as a downpipe from the guttering, but check outside diameter before buying. However they do not normally sell the appropriate pipe fittings. The 55mm pipe is not recommended for normal use as the increased diameter of the pipe will result in a reduced air speed (although not air volume) in the pipe. (If you have used this 55mm pipe, contact vacuum system supplier as there is a vacuum unit with a very high airflow that will compensate for this.)

When installing pipework, start at the vacuum socket and work back to the vacuum unit. Initially, fit the components together without glue to make sure all the parts fit properly as the solvent glue dries very quickly, and once set, the components will not come apart. It will aid the efficiency of the system if the inside of the pipe is as smooth as possible. This can be achieved by making sure that all cuts to the pipe are square and rough edges removed with a fine file or sandpaper. The pipes should be pushed firmly into any connector so that the end of the pipe butts up against the lip inside the connector.

It is most important that the solvent glue is applied to the outside of the pipe (or the male part of any fitting) when making a connection. This is so that any excess glue is squeezed out of the joint to the outside of the pipe where it is harmless. Avoid excess glue on the inside of the pipe. Before applying glue to a joint, make sure that both surfaces are clean and free from grease. If necessary wipe both surfaces with a clean cloth and a solvent such as acetone (nail varnish remover). Apply adequate glue to male side of the joint and insert into female side, twisting the 2 parts as you do so, in order to ensure that the glue is evenly spread and a sound joint is formed. Where this is difficult to achieve due to restricted access, fit the items without glue, make a mark across the joint(s) with a permanent marker, remove items and glue together with the marks aligned. Components can then be fitted as an assembly.

NB It is recommended that you do NOT glue the first connection of the pipework to the vacuum unit inlet as it is a good "push fit". This means that the vacuum unit can easily be removed if necessary.

For maximum efficiency, it is important that there are no leaks in the system.

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