Central Vacuum Installation

A 90 degree socket fitting with signal cable fitted. Pass cable through a hole drilled in the rear of 90 degree socket fitting. Tie a knot in the cable to stop it falling back and feed the excess wire back down the pipe ready for connection to terminals on rear of socket after walls have been plastered / plaster boarded. Re-fit plasterguard if necessary. The front face of the box should be fitted to the front face of the studwork- ie level with the rear of the plasterboard. The spigot on the rear of the socket has maximum 20mm reach so can be fitted through 12.5mm plasterboard into the hole in the socket fitting. See page 11

The same principle applies to fitting a socket box in a solid wall. The front face of the box can be anywhere from being flush with the finished surface (usually plaster) to 20mm behind the finished surface, although fitting sockets is easier if the box is somewhere between 5 & 15mm beneath the finished surface. Secure box to wall. A screw through the back of the box will do as will a generous squirt of Gripfill or similar fixative.

If there is a pipe joining the main pipe from below, a connection like this is necessary.

Try not to connect the vertical pipe directly to the horizontal pipe from below.

Use a Tee connector with either a 45 degree or swept 90 degree bend so that the connection is coming in from the side - i.e. horizontally in the same plane as the main pipe. Then fit a swept 90 degree bend to the stem of the Tee to connect to the vertical pipe.

If a vertical connection is made directly into the horizontal pipe from below, it is possible for heavy objects to fall into the vertical pipe and possibly cause a blockage.

Make pipe connections like these for pipes which join in either the horizontal or vertical plane. Airflow must always follow the sweep of a bend.

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